Hrusice: Josef Lada

Hrusice, CZKarin and I were past due for another jaunt into the countryside outside of Prague.  We chose a small village that most Czechs know well, even if they have never been there, because its idealized scenery was featured by the artist and author Josef Lada.

Lada was a prolific artist who wrote and illustrated a great many children’s books, the most famous featuring Mikeš, the Josef Lada village mapitinerant and talking cat.  However, he is best known internationally for his illustrations of Jaroslav Hašek’s, The Good Soldier Švejk.  Copies of these cartoons are seen constantly in Prague, especially in restaurants catering to tourists.

To reach Hrusice takes some planning.  It is less than 20 miles from Prague but can only be reached easily by the motorway.  By public transport it takes an elaborate combination of modes of transport or, as we did it, by walking about one mile from the nearest train station.

Once here you are up front and personal with Lada and his art, especially the church on the hill that shows in many of his country scenes. Though it does take imagination to Lada church on the hillsee the village as it was in his time and mind.

 

 

Lada Museum and Memorial, HrusiceThe museum is on a small scale and is very well done. It brings the man, his art and his milieu to life. We stocked up on several items at the museum store at low country prices.
We enjoyed browsing the village streets admiring the well maintained residences.  Our lunch at the local hospoda was a poor experience but you may want to chance it because it is the only choice in the village.
An example of art versus reality:
Lada birthplace location

2015 Location

Lada birthplace cottage

as painted

actual Lada birthplace

old photo

My favorite Lada:  Pig Slaughter

Prague: Urban Garden Centre

garden centre in central Prague

Last week Karin returned from a garden centre full of ideas for our apartment planting boxes.  She was impressed with how large and organised the place was while I was amazed at her photos of the huge selection within the urban setting.  It does have a restaurant and quality gift shop so surely rates as a tourist destination.  More at Zahradnictví Chládek

Castles and Chateaux

In early December we saw the ad for this Prague Castle exhibition:  “This spectacular exhibition is the first time that the most valuable treasures from the Czech castles and country houses have been gathered in one place and at one time.”  We were sold, yet with one thing and another we did not make it there until this week.

Don’t you procrastinate!  This exhibit ends 15 March; it would be a shame to miss it. However the Prague Castle Riding School, a magnificent building in its own right, does have regular, high quality shows.  So if you are coming to Prague later check out both the Prague Castle site and the National Heritage Institute site (link down in June 2015).  Actually you need to be on constant watch for posters because there is no one place for all cultural events.

Since this exhibition was drawn from all regions of the Czech Republic it had more than the usual amount of variety.  Below is small sample of items that were of particular interest to me.  All photos by Karin–click to enlarge.

model of castle at Cesky Krumlov

Cesky Krumlov

Well cover from Jindrichuv Hradec

Well cover from Jindrichuv Hradec

armoured knight and horse

Czech Crown Replica

Czech Crown Replica

Wenceslas Reliquary Bust

Wenceslas Reliquary Bust

Czech Renaissance Dining

Renaissance Dining

Inlaid cabinet

Inlaid cabinet

Inlaid Detail

Inlaid Detail

Westphalia Peace Pen

Westphalia Pen

Westphalia Peace

Nelahozeves

We have a long list of towns, villages, castles and other sites within a few hours of Prague that we want to visit on day trips.  Last week we traveled to the one that has been on the list the longest, Nelahozeves.

Ever since our emotional first visit to the Lobkowicz Palace at Prague Castle we have wanted to see and learn more about this family and its tremendous collections of art and history.  This day was our chance.

Nelahozeves Zamek StationThe one hour rail journey from city center was very slow.  It was a commuter train; stopping at every village.  However, they were pretty riverside villages and the views across the river were nice.  As soon as we got off the train we had our first view of the palace.

The exterior is obviously in need of restoration but I can not imagine where the money would come from to do the work.  This country is just too full of worthy Nelahozeves Courtyardbuildings going to ruin.  The interior was a different story.  While not brought back to its former glory the sense of grandeur is well conveyed, especially by the countless family portraits lining all the stairways and halls.

The permanent exhibition is titled:  Private Spaces: A Noble Family at Home.  It illustrates the life of prosperous nobility in the 19th century.  The rooms are not exact recreations but meant as typical of the time.  The furnishings and decorations are exquisite; something awe-inspiring in room after room–including this painting by Rubens.Rubens at Nelahozeves

Photographs are not allowed inside but you can see some on the Nelahozeves website.

 

The print below is for sale in the gift shop and photos are allowed there.

 


Print from Zamek Nelahozeves

We had a one hour tour in English by a personable and competent guide named Lucie.  (Non-Czech tours have to be scheduled in advance.)  We felt we truly experienced the life of a 19th century noble family and left with an appreciation of the difficulty a 21st century noble family has in preserving the treasures of their history.

Nelahozeves MarinaIt was such a beautiful day that we wanted to eat lunch by the river.  We followed signs to the Marina and were pleasantly surprised by the quality of the atmosphere and the food.

The only negative to the day was the lethargic train ride home brought on by having a beer with lunch.

Cheers

P.S.  The composer Antonin Dvorak was born in a house just below the palace.  There is a small museum there.  Update:  After writing this I discovered today was his birthday.  Here’s a belated toast to his great music.