An apology and the Hard Rock Cafe

OOPS!  My last Blog entitled “A Shopping Trip to Vietnam” was about SAPA.  Early in 2010 (January 7 to be exact) my husband wrote about the same thing: SAPA.

Obviously I was a bit careless in not realizing what had been previously written.  I will make sure it won’t happen again.

I  feel better now.  Thanks.

KarinHard Rock Cafe, Prague

 

Here is the Hard Rock Cafe in Prague.  I am not a fan of these restaurants, but my friend in Oregon has a son who is.  He sent a request asking if I could possibly find it and buy him a hat.  It turned out to be very easy to find as it is just off the Main Square in Old Town (Staromestske).  I purchased his hat from a  friendly salesman who was quite eager to speak to me in his very excellent English.  Looking around, I had to admit the Cafe looked to be a fun and hip place, but I always find the prices too expensive for my budget.

Technorati Tags: Hard Rock Cafe,Old Town

A Shopping Trip to Vietnam

Get ready for some unusual shopping.

Michael and I needed some fresh coriander for a recipe we wanted to make.  While Prague has some large and wonderful supermarkets such as Tesco, Albert or Aldi,  none had fresh coriander a.k.a. cilantro.  However we had heard, via the grapevine, of a great Vietnamese market – someplace out of town.  So the challenge was on!  Where on earth was this market?  And what was it called?

My “beagle nose” went directly to the internet and asked Google.  WOW!  That was almost too easy!  Words like “Little Hanoi”, “Vietnamese Markets”, and “SAPA” flew onto the first page.  From then on it was easy.  Using my “how to get there” notes from the SAPA site our evening was spent analyzing the map of the Metro stops and bus lines.  We were excited as it was billed as the Largest Vietnamese Market in Prague.

It turned out to be easy to find the correct Metro and then get the bus, but somehow WHERE to get off left us slightly bewildered.  During the trip many Vietnamese also got on and Michael smartly said, “Where they get off, we will too”!  HIS beagle nose was working!  And he was totally correct!  The entire busload of Asians got off and we did too.  I saw the huge sign: SAPA!

It was a short walk from the bus to the entrance which was not very pretty being mostly sheet metal walls and the first block seemed mostly to be empty buildings.  The day was cloudy with the constant threat of rain and  I was fighting the feeling of wishing we hadn’t come.  Suddenly we turned the corner and found ourselves standing before streets of tiny buildings and a huge area of canvas type stalls.  WOW!

The fish markets were full of strange looking fish.  Most of which were alive and swimming in deep vats.  Some were on ice.  Some were dried.  The smells were a bit overpowering at times with aromas I was not use to.part of asian market in Prague

 

Next were the green grocers and little markets, row after row of them.  Selling the most interesting items which looked very strange to my eyes.  However, it was in such a shop that we found our fresh coriander!SAPA asian market in Prague

 

Next came acres of clothing stalls . . . all under canvas roofs.  It almost felt like the fair grounds I use to go to at the Oregon State Fair.  Each stall seemed to be independent from the other.  The owners (or helpers) were standing in coats and gloves with only a small heater to warm them.  Many got delivery service from the local restaurants such as hot tea and bowls of soup.  I imagine it made a cold day seem better!  And as in most family businesses, little kids were playing around.

 

These stalls sell amazing things –  all on the affordable/cheap side.  Perfect for me because I only wanted a simple knit hat to match my winter jacket.   I found not only one but two that were perfect!  Most of the Vietnamese do not speak English, and very little Czech and I don’t speak Vietnamese or Czech, so language was a slight problem.  Bargaining is expected which for me is not a pleasant aspect of any purchase.  Imagine trying to come to an agreeable price using strange languages and an adding machine!  But I managed to knock off a few koruna!  We walked for what seemed like miles, looking at clothing, knockoff perfumes, household items, toys, Vietnamese music and newspapers, most of which is imported either from Vietnam or China.

After all that walking we began to have hunger pangs and realized we were quite late for lunch.  I learned when reading about SAPA that the restaurants here offer some of the best Vietnamese food to be found in all of the Czech Republic.  The smells coming out of the tiny restaurants were to die for!  We chose one and ordered a Vietnamese specialty:  a bowl of Pho, which is soup in a fragrant broth with rice noodles, floating with pieces of either beef or chicken pieces, cilantro and spring onions.  Delicious!

It was a great day full of interesting discoveries and we hated to leave but told each other we would definitely come again.  I would suggest this as a site to see in Prague!

Later Discovery:  SAPA occupies the grounds of a former slaughterhouse and also houses a primary school and a Buddhist temple, beauty salons, a casino and travel agents for various Asian countries. It is named after a town of the same name in northern Vietnam.

How we went: Take bus 113 from metro Kacerov or bus 198 from Smichovske nadrazi  bus station to Sidlisce Pisnice.

SAPA is open daily from 9:00-20:00

Technorati Tags: markets,SAPA,Vietemese,Asian,Chinese

Coffee, Desserts and Hospodas

Michael and I spent most of December exploring.  This meant many days of walking.  Now I enjoy long walks and liken myself to a beagle dog.  Does that need explaining?  Well, a beagle is often found walking with it’s nose to the ground, sniffing some exciting smell and ending up miles from where it started.  So, I am a like a beagle, always wondering what is around the next corner.  Michael is definitely not a beagle!  However he became this beagle’s best friend–but ONLY if I promised he could rest ever so often at a coffee shop and/or have lunch out in a restaurant.  That sounded ok to me!

On one of our walks we discovered a delightful coffee shop (that reminded us of the ones we frequented when we lived in the States.)  It was called Coffee Heaven.

Every time we went grocery shopping at the Flora Mall in Vinohrady, we made a bee-line straight for Coffee Heaven.  I was hooked on their java and and  chocolate cupcakes.  The girls there were very friendly and helpful as I attempted to order in Czech and they attempted to answer in English!

Then we discovered another Coffee Heaven near Old Town.  I loved the atmosphere there, particularly upstairs.

 

Yours Truly . . . enjoying a hot coffee after a cold walk around Old Town.

Historical ceiling in Costa Coffee old town Prague

 

Such a beautiful ceiling. View of Christmas looking out window of Coffe Heaven (Costa) Prague

 

I enjoyed sitting by the window and watching the people below.  Christmas was only a few days away and everything was very festive in the streets with Christmas trees lit up in many squares.  The outdoor Christmas Markets (for which Prague is famous) were very busy.  Here one can buy a variety of interesting gift items as well as hot spiced wine and delicious sausages served in bread!  (Yes, we definitely tried both of those —  more than once!)

On one walk, we stumbled across The Globe Bookstore and enjoyed a delicious coffee there as well.  We love the combination of coffee and books.  They go together so well — and seem to appeal to people who also like to have long quiet conversations.  We intended to go to some of their events such as live music, movies, book readings, but we never seemed to get there.  Next time!Globe restaurant Prague

 

I could go on and on with lots of pictures of fabulous desserts we ate, our great lunches in the Hospodas (a bit like a bar but with food) in the neighborhoods we explored.  But I won’t at this time. Just suffice it to say that you definitely won’t go hungry and if you like beer you won’t go dry (Czech beer is very affordable AND wonderful!)  I am not a beer drinker, but when in Prague I seem to drink an awful lot of Pilsner Urquell!  Cheers!  Na Zdravu!

Update:  Coffee Heaven has been bought out by Costa Coffee.

Technorati Tags: hospodas,cafe,coffee,Coffee Heaven,Christmas

Hugging a Statue

Yes, I hugged a statue!  Happily hugged it, but with tears in my eyes.  Why?  It actually is a very long story, so I will try to shorten it for this blog.

The Statue is of Sir Nicholas Winton, an Englishman.  Telling the story backwards might help understand why I wanted to know more about him.

I read in a newspaper, the name of which I no longer remember, about a group of people making a trip in 2009, from Prague to London.  It was to be in tribute to Winton.  Who were these people and why was it making the news?

The people making the journey were the direct descendants of the Jewish children known as Winton’s Children.  Sir Winton saved 699 mainly Jewish children on this same route in 1939. 

Winton children at train station

Why would a twenty-nine year old Englishman organize such a brave act during WW2?  That is the question that I asked. 

First off, he was a Christian British stockbroker of German Jewish descent.  As a humanitarian he was aware of the official Kindertransports being organized in other countries and found out none were organized in the then Czechoslovakia. 

On the way to Switzerland for a skiing trip Winton stopped in Prague to visit a friend who was involved in Jewish refugee work.  He never took the ski trip, instead he decided to stay in Prague.  He wanted to help save the children.

The first thing Winton had to do was organize foster homes in England which was difficult as England was already receiving many refugees.  He had to organize trains.  He had to find money.  He had to carefully plan to ensure everyone’s safety.

Almost all the children left before the war broke out and it was with great relief that they made it through to London and their host parents.  That is. . . they all made it but one train; it was stopped as the war had started and the children were taken to concentration camps.  Sir Winton says it still haunts him to this day that those children did not make it to safety.

So why in 2009 did a tribute train make the same trip?  It is a very heart warming story.

The following is from Wikipedia:  Winton kept his humanitarian exploits under wraps for many years until his wife Greta found a detailed scrapbook in the attic in 1988. The scrapbook contained lists of the children, including their parents’ names, and the names and addresses of the families that took them in. After sending letters to these addresses, 80 of “Winton’s children” were found living in Britain.

 The world found out about Winton’s work in 1988 on a television programme titled That’s Life! when Winton was invited to be an audience member. At one point during the programme Winton’s scrapbook was shown, and his achievements explained. The host of the programme then asked if there was anyone in the audience who owed their lives to Winton and if so to stand — at which point over 2 dozen audience members surrounding Winton rose and applauded.

That event brought forth the desire to make the same journey as a tribute to Sir Winton and became the focus of an awareness project known as ‘Inspiration through Goodness’, organized by the Czech government. 

In 2009 an original locomotive from the 1930’s left the Prague Main train station.  On board were some of the original children, their grandchildren and 101 year old Sir Winton!  It was an emotional trip taken in gratitude and love for the man who cared enough to save them.  If it were not for him their children and all their future children would never be born.

Inside old train station

We read that a statue was placed in the Prague Main station so we went to find it.  It was not an easy statue to find.  We almost gave up.  Because there is now a modern train station we did not realize the tracks for trains still leave the original old station.

We could not find it for some time, when I suddenly saw it, standing on Platform B.  Sir Winton and his children getting ready to leave!

Karin at Winton statue

I could not help myself. . . I saw him, and I had to put my arms around him and give him a big hug!  It is life size, he was not much taller than me but he is a HUGE hero to many and will never be forgotten. 

Technorati Tags: Winton,kinderstransport,trains,WW ll,Jewish