Christmas Memories 2009

Last year, Michael and I spent our second Christmas in Prague.  Our first stay the year before was only a brief visit of 10 days whereas our second time was much longer — November through February.

Because we settled in, we decided to decorate our apartment for the holidays.  Of course it was on the cheap because we would not be taking anything back home with us due to luggage limitations.  We really did have fun going to the supermarkets and buying little things.  We visited Albert and Marks and Spencer for most of the decorations. 

streamers in our kitchen for Christmas

Streamers in the kitchen..

Christmas Table Cloth and star candle

Christmas tablecloth and star candle . . .

Xmas Decoration Michael's Stocking in Prague

Michael’s Christmas stocking goes with us every Christmas . . .

Our Christmas window lights in Prague

Two strands of lights . . .one in the living room, one in the bedroom.

 

Xmas Decoration Honeycomb Candle from Prague Christmas market

A beeswax candle purchased at one of the Street Markets . . .

Christmas card display on antique in Prague

And we so appreciated the cards from friends . . .

A local supermarket called Albert gave out a monthly magazine with recipes.  I challenged myself to decoding them by using Google Translator so that our holiday season would be not only filled with decorations, but some traditional Czech foods as well.

Karin in kitchen cooking for Christmas, computer recipe

Where to eat on Christmas Day was a fairly large decision.  We remembered enjoying a delicious steak in Old Town the year before but the restaurant was no longer there.  So after going back and forth between this and that, we settled for dinner at the Indian Jewel located in Ungeldt Square.  It turned out to be an excellent choice!

Indian Jewel for Christmas dinner, Prague

 

 

And we are not too old to appreciate that Old Saint Nick (Santa Claus) visited us and left a few wee gifts, although we did think that just being in Prague was gift enough!

We are now talking about spending even a longer time in Prague next year, so we are definitely looking forward to another Christmas in the Czech Republic in 2011.

And this year our wish to all is a VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS!

Hugging a Statue

Yes, I hugged a statue!  Happily hugged it, but with tears in my eyes.  Why?  It actually is a very long story, so I will try to shorten it for this blog.

The Statue is of Sir Nicholas Winton, an Englishman.  Telling the story backwards might help understand why I wanted to know more about him.

I read in a newspaper, the name of which I no longer remember, about a group of people making a trip in 2009, from Prague to London.  It was to be in tribute to Winton.  Who were these people and why was it making the news?

The people making the journey were the direct descendants of the Jewish children known as Winton’s Children.  Sir Winton saved 699 mainly Jewish children on this same route in 1939. 

Winton children at train station

Why would a twenty-nine year old Englishman organize such a brave act during WW2?  That is the question that I asked. 

First off, he was a Christian British stockbroker of German Jewish descent.  As a humanitarian he was aware of the official Kindertransports being organized in other countries and found out none were organized in the then Czechoslovakia. 

On the way to Switzerland for a skiing trip Winton stopped in Prague to visit a friend who was involved in Jewish refugee work.  He never took the ski trip, instead he decided to stay in Prague.  He wanted to help save the children.

The first thing Winton had to do was organize foster homes in England which was difficult as England was already receiving many refugees.  He had to organize trains.  He had to find money.  He had to carefully plan to ensure everyone’s safety.

Almost all the children left before the war broke out and it was with great relief that they made it through to London and their host parents.  That is. . . they all made it but one train; it was stopped as the war had started and the children were taken to concentration camps.  Sir Winton says it still haunts him to this day that those children did not make it to safety.

So why in 2009 did a tribute train make the same trip?  It is a very heart warming story.

The following is from Wikipedia:  Winton kept his humanitarian exploits under wraps for many years until his wife Greta found a detailed scrapbook in the attic in 1988. The scrapbook contained lists of the children, including their parents’ names, and the names and addresses of the families that took them in. After sending letters to these addresses, 80 of “Winton’s children” were found living in Britain.

 The world found out about Winton’s work in 1988 on a television programme titled That’s Life! when Winton was invited to be an audience member. At one point during the programme Winton’s scrapbook was shown, and his achievements explained. The host of the programme then asked if there was anyone in the audience who owed their lives to Winton and if so to stand — at which point over 2 dozen audience members surrounding Winton rose and applauded.

That event brought forth the desire to make the same journey as a tribute to Sir Winton and became the focus of an awareness project known as ‘Inspiration through Goodness’, organized by the Czech government. 

In 2009 an original locomotive from the 1930’s left the Prague Main train station.  On board were some of the original children, their grandchildren and 101 year old Sir Winton!  It was an emotional trip taken in gratitude and love for the man who cared enough to save them.  If it were not for him their children and all their future children would never be born.

Inside old train station

We read that a statue was placed in the Prague Main station so we went to find it.  It was not an easy statue to find.  We almost gave up.  Because there is now a modern train station we did not realize the tracks for trains still leave the original old station.

We could not find it for some time, when I suddenly saw it, standing on Platform B.  Sir Winton and his children getting ready to leave!

Karin at Winton statue

I could not help myself. . . I saw him, and I had to put my arms around him and give him a big hug!  It is life size, he was not much taller than me but he is a HUGE hero to many and will never be forgotten. 

Technorati Tags: Winton,kinderstransport,trains,WW ll,Jewish

Christmas Concerts in Historical Buildings

Christmas is definitely a time for concerts.  When I looked on the internet at the various venues offered plus the wonderful buildings they were in I felt I was getting a double whammy!  Two for the price of one!  Sightseeing in the nicest possible way!

As is often the case, we had some trouble choosing.  Why?  The selection is huge.  Besides musical concerts,  there were ballets, operas. . . and priced from expensive down to affordable.  We decided to do three over the holidays.  Two in the afternoons which are somewhat cheaper, and splurge on one “biggie”.

Our first one was at the National Museum on Wenceslas Square.  We had heard this museum was a “must see” because it was so beautiful inside.  This particular concert was held in the lobby and was billed as Carols and Christmas Songs plus arias from light operas such as The Marriage of Figaro, The Barber of Seville and Don Giovanni.  Most Christmas Concerts have some variation of Ave Maria which I love.

Before going, we did some research regarding the Museum as a building.  Built in 1818, as a museum, it now houses over 14 million objects.  (Not all in this building, the museum has 10 other buildings).  During WW II it took a hit from a bomb but not much was destroyed. In 1968 the main facade was severely damaged by Soviet machine-gun and automatic submachine-gun fire. The shots made holes in the pillars.  Despite the repairs made between 1970 – 1972 the damage still can be seen because the builders purposely used lighter sandstone to repair the bullet holes.

bullet damage to National Museum

That is the history and rather dreary part.   Once we entered the building it was instantly transformed into magnificence!  The lobby, where the concert was to be held, was in the center of the building where four staircases meet.  The landing was the stage, complete with a big grand piano!  There were chairs for people to sit on, as well as seating on the lush red carpeting on the stairs. Interior of National Museum concert on stairsConcert singers at National Museum

Here we see Soprano Liana Sass and Tenor Vladimir Koval singing one of their arias.  They were lively and funny and interacted with the audience.  During one scene, Liana flirted with the man you see in the blue shirt and Koval kissed an older lady during his part of the act.  They brought the audience right into their songs and actions with a sly wink of the eye and smiles freely given.  Most of the Christmas songs were a bit more serious.

Having just arrived in Prague, neither of us had much time yet to practice our Czech.  I noticed the lady sitting next to me was really enjoying the music, so much so, that at one point she had tears in her eyes.  When it was finished, I turned to her and in English explained that I also had felt very moved.  She understood, rattled away in Czech, held my hand and in parting planted a kiss on my cheek!  Language was no barrier. . . music and song breached it.

Our second Concert was held in Old Town in the Baroque Library Hall of the former St. Michael’s Monastery.  This Monastery was founded in 1626 but has not been a church since the 1800’s.  Unfortunately many beautiful objects were sold and the building was in disuse and disrepair.  At one time it was even a warehouse!  It has recently been turned into a music hall with a beautiful and unique fresco-ed ceiling (at least in my opinion).  This concert was a mixture of Czech Christmas Carols and other World Carols.  Also on the venue was music from Swan Lake, The Four Seasons and music by the Czech composer, Smetana.  We were warmly greeted at the door with champagne and since the gathering was small it almost had the feel of a private concert just for us!  No pictures were allowed, but I managed one of the ceiling fresco.

Fresco ceiling of St. Michael

Inner courtyard at St. Michael

This view was out the window. . this was once an old courtyard, which now is the entrance to Mike’s Cafeteria, appropriately named after St. Michael’s!  Maybe the friars from the monastery drank beer here?  Ha, ha.  Notice the Christmas lights and Santa by the Christmas Tree all made more beautiful by a light dusting of snow.

Our third and last concert was in February.  It was at the Municipal House on Republic Square.  This building was built in a magnificent Art Nouveau style and since the very beginning was meant to be a multi-functional building.  Our concert was held in the large Smetana Hall.  I had walked past this building many times and taken photos of the outside but never did I ever get a full shot.

Muncipal House Smetana Concert Hall

Entering the building I felt very posh and once seated in the Hall and looking around, I truly appreciated it’s beauty.  Unfortunately I  did not enjoy the music of this concert very much, finding it too heavy for my taste.  (To this day, I cannot remember the name of it.)   I spent a great deal of time craning my neck to see all the ornamentation and wall paintings by some very famous artists.  It boggled my mind just thinking of all the music played in this hall over the years.

stage full of performers in Smetana Hall

Smetana Hall holds a lot of people!  The singers took the top half and stood for the entire concert, only singing for about the last 10 minutes!  The symphony sat below on the stage.

ceiling decoration in Smetana Hall

I strongly encourage people to be sure to go to concerts while in Prague.  It is truly a city of music.  Everywhere you go, any day of the week, any hour of the day, there seems to be a concert, an opera or ballet to go to.  It is a common sight to see musicians carrying their instruments, getting off and on trams and metro.  Living over us in our apartment was a man who played for the Prague Symphony and we would quite often hear him practicing his trumpet.  That might sound rather annoying, but believe me it wasn’t!  It only added to the flavour of Prague!

Prague New Year

Karin and I have never been big party people so New Year’s Eve is usually quite quiet for us.  Our all time highlight was one year in Oregon when our son and daughter-in-law took us to a dinner/dance at Timberline Lodge on Mt. Hood — first class all the way in a magical atmosphere!

Prague restaurants, bars and clubs all have party packages available. We noticed everything from 24 Euro per person at Los Adilitas Mexican restaurant to 380 Euro per person at a posh hotel.  The Prague Hilton has a Las Vegas night complete with feathered show girls; I never noticed the price.

Our plan was to have our normal evening in our apartment and then after 10 P.M. wander on down to the river bank near Charles Bridge to soak up the atmosphere and watch the midnight fireworks.  Alas, Karin had a cold coming on and wisely didn’t want to go out in the damp and cold.  So I shouldered the duty on my own and left about 11 to catch the tram.  In the two blocks to the stop I noticed a couple young men staggering along.  Each wanted to go a different direction so ended up going back and forth for the 8 minutes that I waited.

At the tram stop I was surprised by seeing a #51 pull up; my only experience on this line was #10 and #16, but I remembered reading something about late night and special occasions having higher numbers.  So I got on and stayed on as long as I recognized the next station as being in the right direction.  Sure enough at the normal transfer point I got off and switched to #57 which was packed with young people in party hats.  Also everyone seemed to be carrying their own personal half bottle of sparkling wine.  By the way we recommend the local brand of “champagne” called Bohemian Sekt; it is both good and cheap.  We are drinking Mimosas with it as I write on New Year’s Day.

I was wondering which stop would be best but when we got to the National Theatre everyone else got out so I did too.  There we were along the river with the side walks full of people and not much traffic on the normally busy road.  In every direction you could hear and see fireworks although it was only 11:30.  In fact we had a nice little display outside our apartment window about 9 P.M.  (Reminds me of the time when our kids were young and I was baby-sitting the neighbours’ kids as well.  I moved the clocks ahead two hours so we could also celebrate at a decent hour.)

street level fireworks in Prague on New Year'sCharles Bridge and the Vltava River bank is just the focal point of a whole city celebrating.  Every local square and park that I saw coming and going home had plentiful fireworks.  The official, commercial display at the bridge was just a chorus to the vast array of everyone’s personal display.  The intensity increased at about 5 to 12 and kept going strong until about 20 after it tapered back down to just a few each minute.  It was huge and awesome everywhere along the open river and the hills for miles.  I kept thinking about how many Chinese were working year around just to keep this one city supplied.

One cool aspect that I had never seen before were small hot air balloons (12 to 15 inches tall) carrying a flame that caused them to rise and float away on the breeze.  When several were in the air at one time it gave an other world aspect to the whole scene which was already eerie with all the fireworks smoke.

In addition to all the street drinking a great many of the men were smoking cigars, more fireworks in Pragueevidently another tradition.  Everywhere I looked people were having a good time all in good humour.  I only saw one minor argument when someone’s ground twirling sparkler landed on someone else’s ankle.  I also should mention that all the bars and pubs were teeming with celebrants as well.  Everywhere party, party, party.  So home I went to my Czech Mate.

Who, it turns out, had experienced the full scale war zone atmosphere from the relative comfort and convenience of our our apartment balcony as it over looks a park and is around the corner from the Jiri­ho z Podabrad Square.  Like I said, the whole city was alive for this winter time celebration; the choices are endless.

2 Jan Update:  Here is a news summary from Radio Praha:

 New Year’s Eve celebrations less boisterous than usual
————————————————————————
Prague fire-fighters had a busy night on the last day of the year
getting close to 40 emergency calls, mostly to do with firework-related
accidents, such as garbage containers on fire. In contrast to previous
years the vast majority of these accidents resulted in material damage
only, with people suffering only light injuries due to dangerous
manipulation with fireworks. The CTK news agency notes that this may
also have been due to the economic crisis, town halls organized fewer
outdoor events and unlike other years there was no mega-concert on
Prague’s Wenceslas Square. 

Technorati Tags: New Years Eve,Prague,Fireworks