A Bit of Italy

One of our justifications for our expat lifestyle, especially living in Europe, is that we can easily travel to so many other interesting places.  Reality, however, has not lived up to our expectations; we have not traveled near as much as we had hoped to.  (See some of our travels on the Environs page.)

Yet this November we did make an excellent journey to visit friends in Umbria, Italy.  This is definitely one of the benefits of our travelling life; we have made friends from all around the world.  This couple from California share ownership of a country villa in the hills above one of Italy’s largest lakes, Lake Trasimeno.  If you want to spend time among Italy’s hill towns we highly recommend their place:  3 bedrooms and a pool from 680 Euro per week–contact me for their contact info.

hill town center off seasonWe had the advantage of them showing us some of their favourite locations and restaurants in the region.  Italian food as the Italians enjoy it!  Highlights for us included Cortona and Assisi, two of the popular hill towns but off-season.  We took two day trips on the train to Florence and left by train to Venice for two nights in an apartment there.

By the way, it is interesting to note that our flights between Prague and Milan were less than 100 Euro each round trip while our 5 train trips within northern Italy totaled more than 160 Euro for each person.  They have no Senior discounts.

Florence center architectureWe found it intriguing to compare our familiarity of other European cities with those of Italy. Passing through we were quite impressed with the huge and elegant Milan Central Train Station.  Florence, too, was impressive in its solid architecture and the high quality of its public art.  Yet we felt it did not have the charm of Prague.  The highlight of Florence was being in the presence of the original David by Michelangelo; all the photos and videos we have seen do not convey the power that fills the hall around this statue.

typical Venice common beautyVenice also weaved a magic spell around us.  We have traveled extensively and found one big city tends to be like another big city except for its own few unique sites.  That is not the case in Venice!  Here its uniqueness as a whole pervades every view and vista.  Even the delivery men and garbage collectors are charming.  It was such fun to just wander down any path or over any canal bridge that struck our fancy and not worry about being lost–on an island all paths lead to the sea.

Venice in my mind now rates with Istanbul as a city that I want to return to even though there are many great places in other parts of the world that I have not yet visited.  I had better get cracking with our travel plans.  See you later . . .

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Kutna Hora

This town and its suburb, Sedlec, have a mixed reputation.  Yet we consider it a must go for any visitors that are spending a week or more in Prague.  Only an hour train ride away it offers all the glory of a former silver mining capital along with the gruesomeness of a unique ossuary.

Crest of bones at Kutna Hora Ossuary Massive bone pile at Kutna Hora Ossuary

Bones, bones everywhere.  The crest is of the Schwarzenberg family and includes a crow pecking the eye of a Turk.  There are many other “art works” and four massive piles in each of the four corners.  For more photos and a bit of history see Karin’s photo journal.

This bone church causes conflict with visitors.  It is one of those places that you think you have to go to see for yourself and be able to say “I was there!”  Yet afterwards it is a let down. Within five minutes you are finished and ready to move on.  Thankfully the admission is only $2 and then you have the rest of the day to enjoy the hillside town and its wealth of magnificent buildings.

View in Kutna Hora in January View in Kutna Hora in JuneThese two photos show our January visit and our June visit.  Since our first three trips to the Czech Republic were during winter we are really enjoying seeing the differences when we return to the same places in the summer.

house of a silver Baron in Kutna Hora Traditional beer hall in Kutna Hora: DacickyThere are many other fine buildings and sites in the town.  See more of them at this photo album     We usually try to stay away from “tourist restaurants” but this one had such a good write-up we gave it a try. It is called Dacicky Pivnice (Beer hall). In January it was quite cozy and the food was excellent; we shall return.

This is the best day trip out of Prague.  We hope you enjoy it as much as we do.

My First Time

to see beer delivered to a pub by tanker truck:

Pilsner by the tanker truck         including the hose from tanker

The receiving establishment, U Sadu, is in my block.  It is very highly rated by Prague’s pub aficionados but I have found it no better than a dozen others we have been too.  Still it is nice knowing that it is nearby and now I won’t have to worry about it running out of our favourite Czech brew, Pilsner Urquell.

More Connections: Oregon

As you can tell from the previous post, I like to write about small world connections on this huge globe we live on.  Also I realize the title of this blog is not particularly creative, yet it seemed to fit well for us.  So I receive Google Alerts whenever the phrase Czech Mates is indexed.  Most are sports connected; a few are music reviews(even fewer are related to this blog).

U of Oregon logoThe most recent was for two Czech musicians playing at the Oregon Bach Festival in Eugene, Oregon on 29 June, 2013.  Sounds great!

Travel back to the old country with two Czech emigrés who offer a fresh take on European folk music, seasoned with amazing skill, inviting humor, and a joyous kick. A U.S. champion mandolinist, Radim Zenkl is equally fluent on a variety of flutes, whistles, didgeridoo, and vocals. Leo Chern contributes keyboards, bass, and percussion as this spirited duo creates a world of sound.

Eugene was the site of some of the best years of my life as a student at the University of Oregon. This was a few years before the Oregon Bach Festival started so I have not attended this festival.  But I do have fond memories of the Abbey Bach Festival in Mount Angel, Oregon.  Karin and I went on one of our early dates before we were married.  It is a delightful affair with monks singing vespers followed by gourmet box dinner followed by great Bach music.  That same formula is still followed the last time I looked.  Update at Mount Angel Abbey Bach Festival

Mt. Hood from Mt. Angel

This photo is taken from the Abbey grounds where our grandson graduated in 2012.  So the list of Prague and Czech connections to my world goes on.  If you know of others within the six degrees of connection, please comment.  Cheers.