Category Archives: Walks

Bila Hora or White Mountain

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One snowy January day we decided to go to see where the Battle of White Mountain took place.  We found a map and saw a little dot in the middle of a large empty space just outside Prague.  (The little dot was suppose to be the monument to the Battle.)

From previous readings we learned this battle took place on White Mountain or Bila Hora in the Czech language.  It was an early battle of the Thirty Years’ War on 8 November 1620.  There an army of 15,000 Bohemians and mercenaries under Christian of Anhalt were routed by 27,000 men of the combined armies of Ferdinand II, Holy Roman Emperor.  The battle marked the end of the Bohemian period of the Thirty Years’ War.

Tram 22 would take us there.  Riding to the end of the line, we got off in a residential area with a lovely old church called P. Marie Vitezne and a date over the door that said 1713.Church of P. Marie Vitezne, Prague, Bila Hora

 

We followed the road from the tram stop through a housing area to a very large open area we could see in the distance.Housing area near Bila Hora, Pragueskiers at Bila Hora, PragueWe came to a huge open area with a couple of cross country skiers racing across and a rather small mound in the distance.  It was so cold and clear with the sun making all that white snow very sparkly and it dazzled the eyes!Snow fun at Bila Hora, Prague

 

Michael set off, walking to the Monument where a mother and 2 small children were having fun sledding down the slopes of the mound. Monument to Battle of White Mountain, Bila Hora, Prague

 

The monument, of course, is written in Czech but the dates were there so we knew we were in the right spot!  It was hard to imagine such a battle going on with horses, men and their weaponry; all fighting for their own cause.  They say the Battle only lasted 2 hours with much loss of life.  Hard to imagine because on this day, in January 2010, it was so serene!Rusne airport from Bila Hora, Prague

 

Looking towards the airport. . .Star Castle at Bila Hora, Prague

 

And looking towards the Renaissance summer palace built in the shape of a six-pointed star. It was built in 1556 for Archduke Ferdinand of Tyrol.  This palace was there when the Battle took place!Nice snow covered houses and streets, Bila Hora, Prague

 

We walked through this neighborhood and on past the church to the tram stop.what a wonderful day!  I could even imagine myself living in this area . . . there is something very special about the country and open spaces and fresh clean air.

A Mala Strana Sunday

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Mala Strana (started around 1257) is a district of Prague and the name means Lesser Town or Lesser Side.  One can reach it by leaving Old Town and walking across Charles Bridge.  Voila!  You are there!  Right below the Prague Castle! Mala Strana is home to Kampa Island, Petrin Hill, Maltese Square, Wallenstein Palace, and St. Nicholas Square.  These are only a few of the many many things to see.  But this post is only about a simple walk after church and before lunch.  I will tell about the other sites in other posts.

So, on this particular December Sunday, we took the tram from Old Town.  Having been there before we did not walk up to the Castle (this is a must for first time tourists!)  This time I only wanted to wander the back narrow streets and alleyways to look at Baroque architecture.  We also knew of a little restaurant we wanted to try, so we planned to sightsee until we were cold and then have a soup and sandwich break.

While walking on these narrow cobblestone streets, I found myself wondering if perhaps I was walking in the footsteps of Jan Neruda, a poet, writer and journalist, who was born in Mala Strana.  Or perhaps Kafka, the writer, who lived a short while in Golden Lane adjacent to the Prague Castle.  Here also is the Kafka Museum.

Passing the Church of Our Lady Victorius, where the Infant of Prague can be seen, I was reminded of its interesting history.  Since it was December the church was all decked out with Angels and a lovely Nativity Scene.  (The next Sunday I decided to attend church here.  The Priest was from India and spoke English but in a very soft voice.  However, the church remained open to tourists and the squeaky door hinges kept me from hearing him properly.)  There is a wonderful free museum inside the church where one can see pictures, crosses, sculptures, and part of the valuable collection of clothing that makes up the wardrobe of the Infant Jesus.  Karin in front of Infant of Prague church at ChristmasChristmas chreche at Our Lady Victorious in Prague

But I regress.  This is suppose to be about the architecture.  So, moving on . . .

Mala Strana is home to many Embassies housed in beautiful buildings.  One is the United States.  Of course, I wanted a picture.  Also, I wondered about the guard outside with a gun over his shoulder.  (Later I read it is the ONLY Embassy to have such a guard, and if you linger too long, he will ask you to move along!)  I must admit there was no smile to greet me, only a very dour, sour face.  So I took a quick picture and off I went!  And to think that is MY Embassy!flag and guard at USA embassy, Prague

Below are buildings with Sgraffito – a technique of scratching the top layer of paint to the surface underneath.  Pretty amazing!Sgraffito example in mala strana Prague

Soldier and stag over restaurant in Prague

A lovely sculpture over a restaurant entrance.Car entering Italian embassy in Prague

Very fancy gates open very slowly . . . for a very fancy car who had to show some sort of credentials to enter.walking under arches in lesser town Prague

A nice place to walk if it is raining.view of skyline near Prague Castle

Mala Strana as seen on the walk up to the Castle. We did not go all the way this time.  We found our restaurant, had a nice hot bowl of soup and a rest.  While these pictures only show you a fraction of what there is to see, this at least gives you a small idea of how beautiful Mala Strana is.Mala Strana Xmas market booth

The square where the trams come had a Christmas Market.  Some sold Christmas decorations.  Of course I bought a straw angel!

Coffee, Desserts and Hospodas

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Michael and I spent most of December exploring.  This meant many days of walking.  Now I enjoy long walks and liken myself to a beagle dog.  Does that need explaining?  Well, a beagle is often found walking with it’s nose to the ground, sniffing some exciting smell and ending up miles from where it started.  So, I am a like a beagle, always wondering what is around the next corner.  Michael is definitely not a beagle!  However he became this beagle’s best friend–but ONLY if I promised he could rest ever so often at a coffee shop and/or have lunch out in a restaurant.  That sounded ok to me!

On one of our walks we discovered a delightful coffee shop (that reminded us of the ones we frequented when we lived in the States.)  It was called Coffee Heaven.

Every time we went grocery shopping at the Flora Mall in Vinohrady, we made a bee-line straight for Coffee Heaven.  I was hooked on their java and and  chocolate cupcakes.  The girls there were very friendly and helpful as I attempted to order in Czech and they attempted to answer in English!

Then we discovered another Coffee Heaven near Old Town.  I loved the atmosphere there, particularly upstairs.

 

Yours Truly . . . enjoying a hot coffee after a cold walk around Old Town.

Historical ceiling in Costa Coffee old town Prague

 

Such a beautiful ceiling. View of Christmas looking out window of Coffe Heaven (Costa) Prague

 

I enjoyed sitting by the window and watching the people below.  Christmas was only a few days away and everything was very festive in the streets with Christmas trees lit up in many squares.  The outdoor Christmas Markets (for which Prague is famous) were very busy.  Here one can buy a variety of interesting gift items as well as hot spiced wine and delicious sausages served in bread!  (Yes, we definitely tried both of those —  more than once!)

On one walk, we stumbled across The Globe Bookstore and enjoyed a delicious coffee there as well.  We love the combination of coffee and books.  They go together so well — and seem to appeal to people who also like to have long quiet conversations.  We intended to go to some of their events such as live music, movies, book readings, but we never seemed to get there.  Next time!Globe restaurant Prague

 

I could go on and on with lots of pictures of fabulous desserts we ate, our great lunches in the Hospodas (a bit like a bar but with food) in the neighborhoods we explored.  But I won’t at this time. Just suffice it to say that you definitely won’t go hungry and if you like beer you won’t go dry (Czech beer is very affordable AND wonderful!)  I am not a beer drinker, but when in Prague I seem to drink an awful lot of Pilsner Urquell!  Cheers!  Na Zdravu!

Update:  Coffee Heaven has been bought out by Costa Coffee.

Technorati Tags: hospodas,cafe,coffee,Coffee Heaven,Christmas

Olsanske (Olsany) Cemetery

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“In the year 1679 a piece of land owned by a farmer was sold to the town of Prague. That land was located in the village of Olsany, not far from the old town. The reason for the business was the plague which struck and subsequently took the lives of more than 30,000 people that year, generating the need for new burial places and more ground to lodge them. The actual size of this large necropolis is about 50 hectares (150 acres) with a total of 112,000 graves; more then 2,000,000 people have been buried there since it came into existence. It is the burial place of many famous people from Czech history. It is as if time stopped still here; forgotten, while the rest of the city is left to its economic boom and development. At the new shopping center (Flora) which is built at the edge of the cemetery, you can eat at the restaurants on the top floor, and have one of the best views of the cemetery: its crumbling graves and the little old ladies who seem to be continuously tidying them.”

 

That write up from Wikipedia pretty much defines one of Prague’s largest cemeteries.  Olsanske was very near our apartment; a short tram ride or a nice walk.

I walked many times in this lovely spot more like a park than a place of “repose”.

 

 

 

Because it is so large, runners use it for exercise, the general public for short cuts, mothers for taking kiddies on walks, and others like myself, just walking, looking and learning.  So much history here!

 

 

 

This building is now a shed with a very old date – sometime in the 1700’s!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Most graves are well tended.  Some were very very old and crumbling which only adds to the beauty. Here is an example of one I liked.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Karin at Jan Palach graveJan Palach is a Czech hero.  In January 1969, during communism, he was a young University student.  Frustrated at the world and the demeaning of life during that time, he set himself afire (self- immolation) to make a political statement.  We found his burial site in Olsanske and joined others in leaving flowers commemorating the day of his death.  As a mother, I wondered how painful it must have been for his mother and family.

Path through snow covered Olsanke cemetaryDuring the three months we were in Prague I visited Olsanske several times, once after a big snow storm.  It was so beautiful and romantic I could almost imagine riding through in a sleigh,wrapped up in furs, horses trotting, bells jingling! For me this cemetery on this particular day was definitely not a sad place but a happy place full of romance and poetry.

Cemeteries have always intrigued me.  They are full of history.  I enjoyed finding and paying homage to famous people (writers, artists, musicians), seeing the different styles of headstones throughout the ages.  Realizing some of the oldest graves were from the plague times when they could not be buried in town, but out here in this village called Olsany!  (Now of course, right IN town!)  I walked the entire perimeter which is about a mile in total.  Most days I walked all over inside, adding more miles.  And yet, I did not see it all.  I will save that for next time!