Christmas Memories 2009

Last year, Michael and I spent our second Christmas in Prague.  Our first stay the year before was only a brief visit of 10 days whereas our second time was much longer — November through February.

Because we settled in, we decided to decorate our apartment for the holidays.  Of course it was on the cheap because we would not be taking anything back home with us due to luggage limitations.  We really did have fun going to the supermarkets and buying little things.  We visited Albert and Marks and Spencer for most of the decorations. 

streamers in our kitchen for Christmas

Streamers in the kitchen..

Christmas Table Cloth and star candle

Christmas tablecloth and star candle . . .

Xmas Decoration Michael's Stocking in Prague

Michael’s Christmas stocking goes with us every Christmas . . .

Our Christmas window lights in Prague

Two strands of lights . . .one in the living room, one in the bedroom.

 

Xmas Decoration Honeycomb Candle from Prague Christmas market

A beeswax candle purchased at one of the Street Markets . . .

Christmas card display on antique in Prague

And we so appreciated the cards from friends . . .

A local supermarket called Albert gave out a monthly magazine with recipes.  I challenged myself to decoding them by using Google Translator so that our holiday season would be not only filled with decorations, but some traditional Czech foods as well.

Karin in kitchen cooking for Christmas, computer recipe

Where to eat on Christmas Day was a fairly large decision.  We remembered enjoying a delicious steak in Old Town the year before but the restaurant was no longer there.  So after going back and forth between this and that, we settled for dinner at the Indian Jewel located in Ungeldt Square.  It turned out to be an excellent choice!

Indian Jewel for Christmas dinner, Prague

 

 

And we are not too old to appreciate that Old Saint Nick (Santa Claus) visited us and left a few wee gifts, although we did think that just being in Prague was gift enough!

We are now talking about spending even a longer time in Prague next year, so we are definitely looking forward to another Christmas in the Czech Republic in 2011.

And this year our wish to all is a VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS!

Christmas Concerts in Historical Buildings

Christmas is definitely a time for concerts.  When I looked on the internet at the various venues offered plus the wonderful buildings they were in I felt I was getting a double whammy!  Two for the price of one!  Sightseeing in the nicest possible way!

As is often the case, we had some trouble choosing.  Why?  The selection is huge.  Besides musical concerts,  there were ballets, operas. . . and priced from expensive down to affordable.  We decided to do three over the holidays.  Two in the afternoons which are somewhat cheaper, and splurge on one “biggie”.

Our first one was at the National Museum on Wenceslas Square.  We had heard this museum was a “must see” because it was so beautiful inside.  This particular concert was held in the lobby and was billed as Carols and Christmas Songs plus arias from light operas such as The Marriage of Figaro, The Barber of Seville and Don Giovanni.  Most Christmas Concerts have some variation of Ave Maria which I love.

Before going, we did some research regarding the Museum as a building.  Built in 1818, as a museum, it now houses over 14 million objects.  (Not all in this building, the museum has 10 other buildings).  During WW II it took a hit from a bomb but not much was destroyed. In 1968 the main facade was severely damaged by Soviet machine-gun and automatic submachine-gun fire. The shots made holes in the pillars.  Despite the repairs made between 1970 – 1972 the damage still can be seen because the builders purposely used lighter sandstone to repair the bullet holes.

bullet damage to National Museum

That is the history and rather dreary part.   Once we entered the building it was instantly transformed into magnificence!  The lobby, where the concert was to be held, was in the center of the building where four staircases meet.  The landing was the stage, complete with a big grand piano!  There were chairs for people to sit on, as well as seating on the lush red carpeting on the stairs. Interior of National Museum concert on stairsConcert singers at National Museum

Here we see Soprano Liana Sass and Tenor Vladimir Koval singing one of their arias.  They were lively and funny and interacted with the audience.  During one scene, Liana flirted with the man you see in the blue shirt and Koval kissed an older lady during his part of the act.  They brought the audience right into their songs and actions with a sly wink of the eye and smiles freely given.  Most of the Christmas songs were a bit more serious.

Having just arrived in Prague, neither of us had much time yet to practice our Czech.  I noticed the lady sitting next to me was really enjoying the music, so much so, that at one point she had tears in her eyes.  When it was finished, I turned to her and in English explained that I also had felt very moved.  She understood, rattled away in Czech, held my hand and in parting planted a kiss on my cheek!  Language was no barrier. . . music and song breached it.

Our second Concert was held in Old Town in the Baroque Library Hall of the former St. Michael’s Monastery.  This Monastery was founded in 1626 but has not been a church since the 1800’s.  Unfortunately many beautiful objects were sold and the building was in disuse and disrepair.  At one time it was even a warehouse!  It has recently been turned into a music hall with a beautiful and unique fresco-ed ceiling (at least in my opinion).  This concert was a mixture of Czech Christmas Carols and other World Carols.  Also on the venue was music from Swan Lake, The Four Seasons and music by the Czech composer, Smetana.  We were warmly greeted at the door with champagne and since the gathering was small it almost had the feel of a private concert just for us!  No pictures were allowed, but I managed one of the ceiling fresco.

Fresco ceiling of St. Michael

Inner courtyard at St. Michael

This view was out the window. . this was once an old courtyard, which now is the entrance to Mike’s Cafeteria, appropriately named after St. Michael’s!  Maybe the friars from the monastery drank beer here?  Ha, ha.  Notice the Christmas lights and Santa by the Christmas Tree all made more beautiful by a light dusting of snow.

Our third and last concert was in February.  It was at the Municipal House on Republic Square.  This building was built in a magnificent Art Nouveau style and since the very beginning was meant to be a multi-functional building.  Our concert was held in the large Smetana Hall.  I had walked past this building many times and taken photos of the outside but never did I ever get a full shot.

Muncipal House Smetana Concert Hall

Entering the building I felt very posh and once seated in the Hall and looking around, I truly appreciated it’s beauty.  Unfortunately I  did not enjoy the music of this concert very much, finding it too heavy for my taste.  (To this day, I cannot remember the name of it.)   I spent a great deal of time craning my neck to see all the ornamentation and wall paintings by some very famous artists.  It boggled my mind just thinking of all the music played in this hall over the years.

stage full of performers in Smetana Hall

Smetana Hall holds a lot of people!  The singers took the top half and stood for the entire concert, only singing for about the last 10 minutes!  The symphony sat below on the stage.

ceiling decoration in Smetana Hall

I strongly encourage people to be sure to go to concerts while in Prague.  It is truly a city of music.  Everywhere you go, any day of the week, any hour of the day, there seems to be a concert, an opera or ballet to go to.  It is a common sight to see musicians carrying their instruments, getting off and on trams and metro.  Living over us in our apartment was a man who played for the Prague Symphony and we would quite often hear him practicing his trumpet.  That might sound rather annoying, but believe me it wasn’t!  It only added to the flavour of Prague!

Olsanske (Olsany) Cemetery

In the year 1679 a piece of land owned by a farmer was sold to the town of Prague. That land was located in the village of Olsany, not far from the old town. The reason for the business was the plague which struck and subsequently took the lives of more than 30,000 people that year, generating the need for new burial places and more ground to lodge them. The actual size of this large necropolis is about 50 hectares (150 acres) with a total of 112,000 graves; more then 2,000,000 people have been buried there since it came into existence. It is the burial place of many famous people from Czech history. It is as if time stopped still here; forgotten, while the rest of the city is left to its economic boom and development. At the new shopping center (Flora) which is built at the edge of the cemetery, you can eat at the restaurants on the top floor, and have one of the best views of the cemetery: its crumbling graves and the little old ladies who seem to be continuously tidying them.

 

That write up from Wikipedia pretty much defines one of Prague’s largest cemeteries.  Olsanske was very near our apartment; a short tram ride or a nice walk.

I walked many times in this lovely spot more like a park than a place of “repose”.

 

 

 

Because it is so large, runners use it for exercise, the general public for short cuts, mothers for taking kiddies on walks, and others like myself, just walking, looking and learning.  So much history here!

 

 

 

This building is now a shed with a very old date – sometime in the 1700’s!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Most graves are well tended.  Some were very very old and crumbling which only adds to the beauty. Here is an example of one I liked.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Karin at Jan Palach graveJan Palach is a Czech hero.  In January 1969, during communism, he was a young University student.  Frustrated at the world and the demeaning of life during that time, he set himself afire (self- immolation) to make a political statement.  We found his burial site in Olsanske and joined others in leaving flowers commemorating the day of his death.  As a mother, I wondered how painful it must have been for his mother and family.

Path through snow covered Olsanke cemetaryDuring the three months we were in Prague I visited Olsanske several times, once after a big snow storm.  It was so beautiful and romantic I could almost imagine riding through in a sleigh,wrapped up in furs, horses trotting, bells jingling! For me this cemetery on this particular day was definitely not a sad place but a happy place full of romance and poetry.

Cemeteries have always intrigued me.  They are full of history.  I enjoyed finding and paying homage to famous people (writers, artists, musicians), seeing the different styles of headstones throughout the ages.  Realizing some of the oldest graves were from the plague times when they could not be buried in town, but out here in this village called Olsany!  (Now of course, right IN town!)  I walked the entire perimeter which is about a mile in total.  Most days I walked all over inside, adding more miles.  And yet, I did not see it all.  I will save that for next time!

Asia Trade Centre – SAPA

A few months ago when we first started researching where to go in Prague we read an intriguing article about a Vietnamese “wholesale” market on the North side of the city.  It sounded exclusive, hard to find and foreign so we resolved to go.  But then we started reading even more about a larger Asian market on the South side so we went there first.  Below is Karin’s account and then some directions.

The other day Michael and I went to a Vietnamese market named after a region in Vietnam.  This market is not right in the city, but a bus trip out to the “outskirts” of Prague.  We weren’t sure where to get off, however there were several Asians on the bus, so Michael told me that when they get out, we will get out!  Which worked because right across the busy street was a huge sign “SAPA – Little Hanoi”  The welcome was in both Czech and Vietnamese.

At first we were confused, because we heard it was big (like in BIG) but from this perspective, it looked bleak and slightly worn down.  We felt we were entering an old industrial site.  Which probably is exactly what it was.  Once we entered the gate and started walking down a rather lonely street with tiny shops on both sides, we felt like we had entered a very different country.  All signs were in Vietnamese, Chinese or whatever with occasional words of Czech thrown in; the shops were tiny and actually the area became rather busy.

We rounded a corner and there in front of us was the entire “city” of shops!  Shops, shops, shops, hundreds of shops!  It is hard to describe exactly how they are laid out.  They seem to be under roofs.  Like a huge arena….with cement floors and then stalls inside.  The walls are often just heavy tarps.  Like a HUGE inside Bazaar.  These shops sell clothing, foods, household goods, toys, knickknacks.  As you wander around, you realize you are seeing a lot of the same things over and over.  I saw several items I would have liked to buy perhaps, but I am not good at bargaining and that is what you have to do.  So I just “window” shopped.  Many of the items appeared to be quality; others were like Dollar Store junk.

After we spent a great deal of time looking Michael said he needed a cup of coffee.  We noticed small huts (like fishing huts) that were restaurants; many were takeaway only.  We saw men coming out of the shops with trays loaded with food and taking them into the bazaar area for the shop owners to eat.  Here and there were larger restaurants with indoor seating.  We chose one and decided to eat lunch as well.  We had read about a dish called Pho.  It is a delicious broth with bits of meat and cut up veggies and noodles.  The bowls are large.  The soup was delicious.  The coffee was terrible!  I ordered tea and it was very nice.

We then decided to walk the perimeter for a change of pace.  Here were shops with bridal gowns, travel agents, storage units and more of the same that we saw under the big roofs.  I saw one shop that intrigued me and that was all wicker.  I don’t think you are supposed to buy 1 of anything, but I asked for a wreath form and he sold it to me for a very reasonable price! The little grocery stores were interesting…I didn’t know half of what I was seeing.  The dilemma was that they could not speak English, but could SAPA asian market in Praguespeak Czech.  We couldn’t speak Czech and for sure we could not speak Vietnamese.  But Michael did manage to purchase some sweet red chilli sauce he likes and also some fresh cilantro.

I read that on site there is a school for young Vietnamese kids to learn Czech.  Even a pagoda like temple.  We did not see that.  Michael informed me that it would be impossible to see it all.  We had the idea that maybe we could find a Mah Jong set here, but no one knew what it was.  I know I said it was a Vietnamese site, but they did have some Chinese things as well.

part of asian market in PragueWhen we left, we realized we had just experienced a journey into another culture and country!  We did see a few Czech people there, but very few.  I did wonder where the Asian people live, and what brought them to Prague.

After I came home I did some research…(better late than never) and read about the problems the Vietnamese have here.  The Czech’s are not so welcoming to them, and often the Vietnamese are picked on.  These problems still exist, but hopefully getting better because the Vietnamese have organized themselves, selected a spokes person and try to sort problems with the city in a way that they can be heard.

Sapa is most convenient by car but just a short walk from the Sidlisce Pisnice bus stop.  The official transit site (dpp.cz) says to take bus 331 from the Kacerov station of the C (Red) line, but several other buses go there as well including 113 and 333.  Upon returning we took the latter to the Budejovicka Metro station.

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